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For those with a sweet tooth, the dessert front is dominated by Kaiserschmarm, a scrumptious concoction of sliced pancake with dried fruit and redcurrant jelly. Another special treat (and a meal in itself) is Strauben, fried squirts of sweetened batter with bilberry sauce. Ask at the bakeries for Apfelstrudel or Mohnstrudel, a luscious pastry roll stuffed with apple or poppy seeds respectively.

Some memorable wines hail from the Dolomites. Among the reds are the full-bodied Teroldego and lighter Schiava from the Trentino, as well as excellent Lagrein and Blauburgunder (Pinot nero) from the slopes round Bolzano. The list of whites is headed by the heavenly, aromatic Gewürztraminer, which reputedly originated at Termeno (near Bolzano), while very drinkable Riesling and similar others are produced from grapes grown on the steep terraces over the Isarco valley.

The non-alcoholic Holundersaft, elderberry blossom syrup, is refreshing on a hot summer’s day. Coffee is strictly Italian-style and comes as short black espresso, milky and frothy cappuccino or less concentrated caffe latte, as well as an infinite range of intermediate combinations. Tea is usually served black with lemon. A warming drink on a cold day is thick, rich cioccolata calda, Italian-style hot chocolate.

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