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 Balzo di Montegallo: Camping Vettore, Strada San Nicola 15 0736 807007 open Easter to early Jan www.campingvettore.it

 Calcara near Ussita: TGS Amici Colorito 0737 99443, and Estate Inverno 0737 99448.

 Castelvecchio near Preci: Campeggio Il Collaccio 0743 939005, open April–Sept www.ilcollaccio.com

 Fiastra: Campeggio al Lago 0737 52295

 Schianceto above Castelsantangelo sul Nera: Camping Monte Prata 0737 970062, open 15/6–15/9, www.campingmonteprata.it


Shopping for lunch at Visso market

Food and Drink

Pasta is the natural starting point for this important section. Proudly home-made fresh ribbons or luscious thin strips feature high on menus as tagliatelle or tagliolini. Smothering sauces include funghi (local wild mushrooms, unfailingly delicious), ragù, hearty meat sauce, and amatriciana, a spicy stew of pancetta (bacon), tomatoes and onions. Meat is naturally high-profile food in these mountainous areas, notably as a secondo course. Wild boar (cinghiale) may be offered in umido (stewed). Don’t be put off by the offer of castrato which means a type of tender lamb. Delicious when barbecued and sprinkled with herbs and olive oil, it is eaten with the hands. Grigliata mista is mixed grilled meat, generally pollo (chicken), manzo (beef), agnello (lamb) or older pecora (mutton), while rosticini are barbecued skewers of whatever meat is going. Olive ascolane from the Ascoli Piceno district are fat green olives stuffed with sausage meat, crumbed, fried and devoured finger-burning hot!

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