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Few trekkers venture further N, but you have only to carry on to Bethesda – to end as you began, in the devastation of quarries – to find that the magic goes on. Not with quite the same might and splendour, perhaps, but superb walking country nonetheless, especially if you value solitude. Cwm Cywion, a hanging valley with a teardrop tarn; the flaky ridge of Creigiau Gleision and the teetering pinnacles of the Mushroom Garden; Cwm Coch and the menacing Yr Esgair ridge, great as a spectacle but too exposed for walkers and too crumbly for climbers; Cwm Bual, Cwm Perfedd, Cwm Graianog and Cwm Ceunant – undiscovered and unsung, all of them, but well worth cultivating in spite (or because) of that.


Tryfan from the east (GL 34)

The N arm of Cwm Graianog is heathery and wild and leads above a wall of slabs, smooth as silk, to the most N outpost of the Glyders, Carnedd y Filiast. From here dedicated walkers could walk the entire ridge to Capel Curig in a long day. And what a day! A rollicking tramp over a grassy saddle, big enough for a fair, soon leaves the slaty wastes behind. Mynydd Perfedd comes next; a name without a presence. The direct line of advance lies straight ahead, but only the most indolent would ignore the edge path that curls so delectably over the aquamarine of Llyn Marchlyn Mawr to the cone of Elidir Fawr.

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