Читать книгу Hillwalking in Wales - Vol 2 онлайн

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Back beneath Perfedd is Bwlch y Brecan, high point of an old packhorse route that used to link Cwm Perfedd and Cwm Dudodyn and is one of three still navigable trails that cross the Glyders. These N highlands, over Foel Goch and Y Garn, are perfect striding country, blessed with helpful tracks and laden with atmosphere. With the exception of Cwm Las and Esgair y Ceunant, the S slopes facing Snowdon lack excitement while the neglected N flanks are full of potential with dramatic views across the neat, green meadows of Nant Ffrancon to Carneddau, Ogwen and the spires of Tryfan.

A rude awakening awaits anyone naïve enough to judge the Glyders on the evidence so far. A sharp drop to a marshy saddle reveals Llyn y Cwn and the head of the Devil’s Kitchen. This is the key to the second ‘low-level’ crossing of the Glyders, up the Devil’s Kitchen from Ogwen, down Cwm Las to the Llanberis Pass. More significantly it heralds a change both of direction and of style. This is the Rubicon; no more grass. The next 2 miles, presaged by a toilsome, near 1000ft slog up to the reigning peak, Glyder Fawr, are scree and boulder-hopping.