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Refuge accommodation must be booked in advance on July and August weekends, preferably by phone as few have email access during the summer. ‘Vorrei prenotare un posto letto/due posti letto’ means ‘I’d like to book one/two beds’. Be aware that if you book but do not turn up, you could set in motion costly (for you!) alpine search and rescue procedures, so remember to phone and cancel if you change your plans; but do give plenty of warning for courtesy. Some establishments accept credit cards but it is best to carry a supply of euros in cash to be on the safe side. See Appendix C for listings of all the refuges visited in this guide.


Lyfi Alm provides home-style meals and refreshments (Walk 35)

Food and drink

A holiday in the Stelvio National Park is also a guarantee of memorable gastronomical experiences thanks to the rich culinary traditions of the Lombardia, Trentino and Südtirol regions.

Hearty soups feature regularly on menus: minestrone with vegetables is unfailingly satisfying, as is substantial zuppa d’orzo with barley, while Gulaschsuppe, a rich tomatoey soup with chunks of beef and paprika, is another good bet. Pasta starts with pizzoccheri, a wholesome and filling dish of buckwheat pasta, cabbage and potatoes smothered with melted cheese. Gnocchi con ortiche are tiny potato and nettle dumplings, while Trentino versions are strangolapreti (priest stranglers!) incorporating spinach, and monchi made with polenta (cornmeal) and smothered with sage-flavoured butter. Do try capelazzi, over-sized ravioli stuffed with ricotta, and when in the Südtirol, if you can get your tongue around the name, seek out Kartoffelteigtaschen mit Bergkäse, pockets of fresh pasta filled with soft potato and served with melted local cheese.

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