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The GEA trek

The trek described in this guide is a memorable long-distance journey on foot snaking its way through the central and northern section of the Apennines. The Grande Escursione Appenninica or GEA (pronounced ‘jayah’ in Italian) spends a total of 23 wonderful days covering a little over 400km (402.6km to be precise), approximately a third of the total length of the Apennine chain; it moves across altitudes ranging between 400 and 2054m above sea level. Accommodation en route is in comfortable guesthouses and alpine-style refuges.

Starting in eastern Tuscany on the border with Umbria and the Marche, the trek progresses northwest to make a number of forays into Emilia-Romagna – with marked changes in accents and cuisine – before heading inland parallel to the Tyrrhenian coast on its way north to the edge of Liguria.

Marvellous views over the Garfagnana to the Alpi Apuane (Stage 17)

The route was conceived in the 1980s by Florentine walking enthusiasts Alfonso Bietolini and Gianfranco Bracci, though many improvements have since been implemented. The walking is straightforward, on paths, forestry tracks and lanes with constant waymarking, making the GEA suitable for a broad range of walkers. In the northern part the odd brief tract negotiates exposed crest, mostly avoidable. The terrain ranges from rocky slopes and open windswept crests, thick carpets of flowered meadows through to woods, where layers of leaf litter provide a soft cushion for tired feet and the play of sunlight serves as distraction from fatigue. Almost every day road passes and villages served by local transport are touched on, enabling walkers to slot in or bail out at will, to fit in with personal holiday requirements.