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Return to the upper lane and turn right (east). A major irrigation channel is soon crossed, followed by a drop beneath a curious overhang of smooth lava overlaying jagged strata. Remnants of an ancient bridge are visible on the opposite riverbank, while close at hand an old mill stands well below the castle. Here fork left as per the nature trail, in gentle ascent along the flanks of the hill, thick with orchids in springtime. A picnic area is a good spot to enjoy the lovely views, before you enter the town again and shortly reach Piazza Matrice. Walk back along Via Ruffo to the Municipio of Francavilla. Accommodation Hotel L’Orange Tel 0942-981374 B&B Quattareddu Tel 0942-982693 or 333-2972877

The Alcantara River below Francavilla

MONTE ETNA

‘When I look at her, low, white, witch-like under heaven, slowly rolling her orange smoke and giving sometimes a breath of rose-red flame, then I must look away from earth, into the ether, into the low empyrean. And there, in that remote region, Etna is alone.’