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To climb safely in the Alps involves a number of skills, including a combination of rope management, route-finding ability, appreciation of snow and ice conditions, crevasse identification and an understanding of crevasse rescue, as well as fitness and good acclimatisation.
Knowledge of alpine mountains and mountaineering only comes with experience, but is essential to enable the climber to select a route that is in good condition, to recognise potentially hazardous snow and ice conditions, to detect the presence of crevasses, and predict changing weather patterns. Experience tells the climber what time to set out, when it is safest to deal with difficult or dangerous sections of the route, when and where the greatest threat of avalanche lies, or where rock is likely to be free from a glaze of ice.
Navigational skills are essential for safety and success in the mountains. Correct route-finding on both rock and glacier will save time and energy and limit a climbing party’s exposure to danger. Close scrutiny of the appropriate maps and guidebook (where one exists) will be extremely useful. But with glacial recession and rockfall changing the mountains from one season to the next, quizzing other climbers who have recently done the route will often be the most beneficial approach. When on rock finding the correct way can be helped by signs of previous climbers, but beware of following other parties unless you’re sure that they are on the same route you wish to climb. If the moves are much harder (or easier) than the grade your chosen route warrants, there’s a good chance you’re off-route.