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As well as rock, snow and ice climbing skills, rope management should be practised in advance on climbs at home until they’re second nature. But the alpine environment has demands beyond those of Britain’s mountains, for safe movement on glaciers, for example, involves its own technique. While ‘dry’ glaciers (bare of snow) are usually safe to cross because crevasses are clearly visible, on snow-covered (‘wet’) glaciers where crevasses are hidden, parties should cross roped together 15m apart. Three on a rope is the minimum for safety on a glacier (four for preference), but even then it’s not easy for two people to haul one unfortunate victim from a crevasse. Crevasse rescue is a skill that all would-be alpinists should practise.

Being fit on arrival in the Alps enables a party to move quickly and safely over a variety of terrain, and combined with good acclimatisation and stamina will allow them to complete long and arduous routes without fatigue impairing their judgement. Speed and efficiency equal safety.

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