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A diver in the waters off Bali peers into a large barrel sponge, Xestospongia testudinaria.

Beautiful Bali cattle wander the rocky beach at Tulamben, Bali, one of the most popular dive sites in Indonesia. These placid animals are a domesticated form of the wild cow or banteng.

If your plans will take you through Jakarta, these dives might be worthwhile, but the diving is much better at points east. If you are coming all the way to Indonesia expressly to dive, your destination should not be Java.

Sumatra. Just an hour's ferry ride from Singapore, north Bintan Island has opened for diving. Visibility is limited, but there's a wealth of life to see, especially at night. On the opposite side of the island, offshore Padang and the Mentawai Islands promise great diversity—shipwrecks and fringing reefs to wall dives. And much of it is still relatively unexplored.

Bali. Bali has more tourist services than anywhere else in Indonesia. It is a beautiful island, and the diving is excellent. There are many different sites here, from the clear water and steep walls of Menjangan to the famous Tulamben wreck to the 4-knot currents and cold water of Nusa Penida. The visibility is usually very good, and the fish and coral life are excellent. One caveat: almost 1 million tourists a year visited Bali at last count, and here is one of the few places where you might find a crowd.