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East Kalimantan. Manta rays and a salt-water inland lake are the top drawing cards here. World-famous Borneo Divers, the folks who pioneered Sipandan diving, started operations in Sangalaki. After a period of suspended operations, they are planning to reopen their dive business with a new Indonesian partner. Another dive outfit, based on nearby Derawan Island, also offers diving on Sangalaki, and this has evolved into a well-run operation.

A school of pennant butterfly-fish, Heniochus diphreutes. Swarms of these beautiful butterflyfish are a common sight on Indonesian reefs.

Ambon. Dive operations in Ambon and the Lease Islands are smoothing out. Operators now have adequate boats, with all the essentials. The diving here is very good and there will be no crowds at all. But the quality of dive personnel varies greatly. New sites here are still waiting to be discovered.

Our favorite live-aboard, the wooden Pindito, operates out of Ambon. Most of the year, it covers the Banda Sea. When the weather gets bad there, it runs dive cruises to Irian Jaya. The Pindito has pioneered most of the best dive spots in the Banda Sea and they know the area well. With the deepest seas in Indonesia and islands jutting up from abyssal depths, this is truly spectacular diving, second to none.