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For the best diving, the operators have pioneered Alor Island, where a couple of dozen spots, along with some in the Banda Sea, top our best-of-the-best in Indonesia list. Currents can be strong, but for hard core divers, Alor gets our highest recommendation. Now the live-aboards Komodo Plus I and 77 also visit Alor.

Sulawesi. The steep coral walls ringing the islands off Manado are some of the very best in the world. The visibility is very good, and the variety of marine life is superb. Some of the dive operators could use more reliable dive boats, and English-speaking dive masters with international certification. Bangka Island offers excellent spots, without the crowds at Bunaken. A new dive center, quiet and luxurious, offers very good diving from just north of Bitung, on the other side of the peninsula from Manado. The waters of the Lembeh Strait are very rich, and hold interesting wrecks.

The Serenade and its daughter ship Arlena, both operated by Murex, and the live-aboard operated by Liburan Adventure Diving Tours, all run out of Manado to the Sangihe-Talaud Islands. The Spermonde archipelago off Ujung Pandang, Selayar island just off the southwest peninsula, the Tukang Besi archipelago off the southeast tip, and the Togian islands tucked away in the Gulf of Tomini in central Sulawesi all offer exciting exploratory diving opportunities.

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