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For the best locations, try the inexpensive live-aboards the Komodo Plus I and II. These ships do not offer luxury, but their charts show all the best locations in this world-class area, all pioneered by the outfit.

Maumere, Flores. Early in the decade, Maumere Bay was hit by a triple whammy: earthquake, tsunami, and a cyclone. Many of the reefs were devastated, but there are still good locations. Life is returning to the area, and this process of recovery can be very interesting from a diving perspective. Diving services are now very limited, but the essentials are there.

Sumba. It's no piece of cake to get there, but the south coast of Sumba offers a top location, dubbed Magic Mountain. It's an undersea mound, teeming with large fishes. The resort on land has been bought by the internationally acclaimed Oberoi chain.

Kupang, West Timor, and Roti and Alor. This area provides the closest diving for North Australia-based divers. The marine life is plentiful, and the operators are very good, experienced and enthusiastic. The only drawback to Kupang is the visibility, which is poor to just fair by Indonesian standards: 6-12 meters. Roti is better.

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