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A fair range of snakes enjoy this sun-blessed island, and one of the longest and most commonly encountered is a swift and irritable black colubrid, which is harmless. The viper or adder (vipera in Italian), a venomous snake with diamond/zigzag markings on its light brown-grey back, is to be taken seriously. Bare feet and flimsy sandals are best avoided, as is sitting on sun-baked rocks without giving prior occupants time to slither away.

The delightful transparent, creamy-coloured Sicilian gecko abounds, distinct from the more usual Mediterranean type. This miniature dragon darts about striking daring poses on walls inside and out in search of insects.

Despite the over-fished state of the Mediterranean, majestic swordfish and silvery tuna of up to 200 kilos are a common sight in the markets, especially towards summertime. The former are pursued predominantly around Messina from curious boats (feluca) whose masts are fitted with slender lookout towers some 22m high. A similar extension of the prow serves the harpooner. Tuna, on the other hand, are subjected to a complex group hunt and meet their end according to age-old traditions that see them first captured in a labyrinth of nets and chambers, as per the mattanza still practised in the Egadi islands.