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Cloud-capped M. Etna, visible from Taormina’s gardens

The Walk

The route starts from the beautifully restored Art Deco-style railway station, enveloped in heady orange blossoms that are nothing short of overwhelming in spring. Take the road northeast in the direction of Taormina and after some 300m, where it squeezes through a row of houses, turn off left, following the signpost for the ‘centro’. Right past a grotto-cum-shrine, a ramp leads to a pathway for the winding ascent through scrubby vegetation. Views over the sea are impressive from the word go. After the modest church of Madonna delle Grazie is a stiff but short climb to the verge of a sprawling hotel complex – go left up the stairs to Via Roma. Here it’s well worth detouring briefly right (east) to the delightful shady public gardens Parco Duchi di Cesarò for brilliant views of Etna.

Resume the uphill stretch on a broader flight of steps alongside Hotel Villa Schuler, then it’s left at the subsequent fork and up in a matter of minutes to the town’s main street, Corso Umberto 1°, close to Piazza IX Aprile (45min from the railway station). In terms of height, you’re halfway now, as Taormina stands 200m above sea level.