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The picture on the bird front is a little more cheerful. Pink flamingos have returned to coastal bird sanctuaries along with an impressive number of waterfowl such as herons, egrets and the elegant black-winged stilt (the cavaliere d’Italia), easily recognised by its long, spindly and unsteady crimson legs, almost comical as it fishes in shallow water. Dominant birds in the countryside tend to be flashy magpies and squawking jackdaws, though there are also melodious skylarks and nightingales, and some impressive birds of prey. In spite of the annual slaughter many are subjected to on their return south across the Strait of Messina, the list includes buzzards and kestrels, the peregrine falcon, Bonelli’s eagle and elegant Eleonora’s falcons, most of which are to be considered endangered. The latter are renowned for their evening group hunting forays when they prey on smaller, weary species. The unusual Egyptian white vulture, or pharaoh’s chicken, reportedly survives in the mountains, as do rare pairs of golden eagles.

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