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A frequenter of stony ground and clearings, the Sicilian rock partridge is not an unusual sight scurrying along a track trailing its young, while memorable is the eye-catching hoopoe running and bobbing its way along pathways. This unusual and showy bird is identifiable by its trademark crest of black-tipped, chestnut-brown feathers and black and white striped wings. A summer migrant in northern Europe, it often winters over in Sicily in preference to Africa.

Sunset over the Sciara del Fuoco (Walk 46)

THE NORTHEAST COAST

WALK 1

Taormina and the Castello Saraceno

Start/Finish Taormina railway station Distance 3.5km/2.2 miles Ascent/Descent 400m/400m Grade 1 Time 2hr Maps Town map from Tourist Office Access Taormina’s railway station (Taormina-Giardini) is served by all Messina–Catania trains. Buses (Interbus) also stop here before proceeding uphill to the town, where it is feasible to slot directly into the upper part of the itinerary if desired. A novel way to access the town is by cable-car (funivia): from Mazzarò on the coast it ascends the mountainous eastern flank, to terminate a short distance from Porta Messina. Drivers on the A18 autostrada will need the Taormina Sud exit, then the SS 114 coast road, and are advised to seek parking on the outskirts of town.

This popular scenic route makes use of old winding trails on the picturesque hillsides around the erstwhile Graeco-Roman settlement of Tauromenium, now a charming tourist attraction. The site was originally occupied by the native Sicel population and is set in a dominating position high over the sea in a series of spacious recesses and terraces on the flanks of lofty Monte Tauro. The actual town was founded in the 5th century BC by refugees fleeing from the destruction of nearby Naxos, the pioneer Greek colony in Sicily; in fact, Taormina’s landmark, an unusual and beautiful theatre ensconced in the mountainside, dates back to that period. The thriving settlement was eventually seized by the Arabs in the 10th century, only to fall to the Normans some time afterwards, as happened all over the island. Path closure: due to minor landslips the path from the railway station up to the town is currently closed after Madonna delle Grazie – and awaiting repairs.